Dive Gear Cleaning and Maintenance

General Tips

Proper maintenance of scuba equipment is very important for several reasons. Not only is it safer to use, but it lasts longer and better maintains its value.

Most diving gear is made up of rubber, plastic and metal parts that are subject to oxidation and decay.  Salt, dust, dirt, heat, ultraviolet light, ozone and fumes can all be harmful to scuba equipment, so divers should use good judgment in protecting their gear from these substances. 

After every dive, make sure to give all of your scuba gear a good rinsed with fresh water.  After rinsing the scuba diving gear, allow it to dry, but not in direct sunlight.

Most of the scuba equipment that you carry is made of neoprene rubber, which can be broken down when exposed to direct sunlight. Extra care should be taken between dives, when they are most vulnerable to the sun, especially in tropical climates.

Whether you have a wet or a dry suit, neoprene exposure suits should be hung on a non-wire hanger to dry. Wire hangers can cause unnecessary ceases.

All your scuba diving equipment should be stored in a cool, yet dry place.

Separate your neoprene related equipment from your other scuba gear, especially if they are damp. Over time, they can stick  together and tear when pulled apart.

Regulator: The most important maintenance procedure you can perform on your regulator is a complete, fresh water rinse immediately after, or within a few hours of your last dive. Even if you don't have a chance to rinse off your other equipment right away, try to see that your regulator gets a fresh water rinse as soon as possible, regardless of whether you have been diving in salt or fresh water.  If allowed to remain inside your regulator, dried salt crystals and sand particles can damage the precision parts inside. The chlorine and acids in swimming pools, as well as the mineral and alkaline deposits present in fresh water lakes and rivers can also cause corrosion and damage to many regulator components.

To clean your regulator, make sure the dust cap is securely in place on the first stage air inlet and that it has a watertight seal.  Use warm (not hot) water to rinse or soak your regulator. This will dissolve any dried salt crystals that may have accumulated in the interior.  Direct a low pressure stream of fresh water over the first stage, and allow it to run freely through any open ports. If your first stage uses a piston-type valve, pay attention to rinsing all salt and sand out of the water chamber, as sand particles or salt build-up can interfere with the operation of the piston by causing damage to the piston o-ring.  Rinse the second stage by directing a stream of fresh water into the mouthpiece and allowing it to exit through the exhaust tee. Flush water around and outside of the entire second stage, concentrating on the swivels, and LP and HP cracks and crevices. Do not push the purge button, unless you are holding the hose and first stage high above the second stage and away from the water, or unless the regulator is pressurized on the tank.   Another option is to immerse the entire assembly in a tub of warm water, always ensuring that the watertight dust cap is securely in place. This would be advisable if a period of time has lapsed after your dive without rinsing the regulator. Allow the regulator to soak for five to ten minutes, sloshing it around to loosen any stubborn particles.  Allow the regulator to dry thoroughly before storing it.

BCD: Maintaining your BC is just as important.  Make sure your cover is on the inflator hose connector.  Rinse in fresh water after every day of diving. Saltwater from the sea can sneak in and shorten the useful life of your BCD. It is very important that you rinse the bladder inside your BC thoroughly after each use. Store your BC with it partially inflated.  Make sure to drain any water from inside your BC.

Dry suits: Thoroughly rinse the outside of your dry suit after use.  If you have a leak, you will need to rinse the inside as well.  Make sure to hang the suit over a pole or tube so it dries well.  Do not hang your dry suit from a hanger.  The seals of suits should be checked for any type of tear, cracks, or aging.   You should lube your seals and zipper after every couple of dives.  If you suit or clothes inside your suit are damp after a dive, you may have a leak and should perform a leak test. Consult a professional, or visit your local dive shop for additional suggestions or repairs.

Wetsuits: After diving wash thoroughly with warm, fresh water. If possible, soak your suit in a large tub, giving it several fresh water rinses. To help protect the rubber and eliminate odors, periodically rinse the suit with a commercial wetsuit conditioner or with a mixture of baking soda and water. It is recommended that you use a fabric softener for the final rinse of neoprene articles to increase their life.   While washing, check for leaks or tears, especially around the seams, knees and the seat. After rinsing the suit, it is best to hang it up and let it air dry completely. Use very wide hangers to prevent creasing the rubber or stretching the suit. After the suit is dry, lubricate metal wetsuit zippers with silicone or beeswax to prevent corrosion and to ensure smooth operation for future dives.  Make sure the suit is completely dry before storage.  If it is stored on a hanger, use an extra-wide, smooth hanger. Never fold or stuff a wetsuit into a diving bag for storage.

Tanks and valves: After each dive rinse off your scuba diving tank and valve with fresh water and let it dry for a few hours. When washing your tank, pay attention to the tank boot and the backpack attachments. Water trapped in tightly fitted areas may enter small nicks and scratches and begin corrosion on the exterior of the tank. Tanks should be kept out of direct sunlight. If a full tank overheats in direct sunlight, you run the risk of the air expanding inside the tank to the point that the burst disk will be ruptured. Never store your tank empty.  An empty tank has a high likelihood of taking in water, which could have a corrosive effect on the tank.  In the case that the scuba diving tank is empty, close the valve immediately to prevent water from getting into the regulator. They should also be visually inspected for corrosive damage by a professional before refilling with air. Never let the air escape from the tank rapidly. If you must let the air out of your tank, do it slowly. The best method is to immerse the tank in shallow water with the valve above water, and slowly let the air escape. Emptying the tank in a hurry will cause condensation of moisture to form on the interior of the tank. As the air inside expands rapidly, it will also cool very rapidly, giving up some of its vapors in the process.

Dive/Wreck/Guide Reel: As with most dive equipment, you should rinse your reel with fresh water following each dive. You should also periodically disassemble the reel, and remove any build up of salt or sediment on its internal parts. We recommend pulling some or all of the line off the spool before each dive, then rewinding it neatly but not too tightly, so as to prevent the possibility of jamming during line deployment. If the line on your reel is new or very dry, we recommend pulling the line off into a bucket of water. This will moisten the line, precluding it from swelling on the reel and further preventing the possibility of jamming or damaging the spool. Finally, too much line on the spool can cause jams.

Masks, Fins, Snorkels and Misc Gear

Breaking in New Equipment
After purchasing a mask, snorkel or set of fins, remove the manufacturer's shipping preservative from the equipment before using it. Many rubber products are coated with ozone and ultraviolet inhibitors by the manufacturer, which will often appear as a white waxy substance on the rubber. The preservative may easily be removed with a mild abrasive such as tooth paste or ordinary kitchen cleanser. Scrub the lens of the mask thoroughly inside and out. If this is not done when the mask is new, the mask will have a tendency to always fog up when you dive.

Maintenance Checklist

Mask Lens
Inspect for nicks, cracks or chips in the lens of the mask. Never dive with a chipped or cracked lens. If you have prescription lens in your mask, ask for the plain glass lens that was taken out to put the prescription lens in.

Lens Retaining Ring
Inspect for any defects such as cracks, broken spot welds, stripped screws, or loose nuts that will affect the security of the retaining ring.

Mask Cleaning
After each use, rinse thoroughly in fresh, warm water (not hot) to remove chlorine, sand, or any encrusted salt particles that have accumulated on the lens of the mask or in the narrow recesses around the lens retaining ring. Occasionally wash in warm, soapy water, followed by a thorough rinsing to remove traces of the chlorine, perspiration salt or lotions that may collect on the rubber over a period of time through normal use.

Straps
Check the mask and fin straps for any signs of deterioration or distortion of the rubber. Flex the rubber gently when dry and look for signs of cracking and brittleness which will be most noticeable where the straps bend around the buckles.

Snorkel
Check for any looseness or separation around the mouthpiece, checking to ensure that the mouthpiece has not been bitten through and is free of cracks. The swivel joints on many snorkels should be disassembled in order to remove any debris or sand particles. Scrub the area lightly with a toothbrush, and then reassemble. For snorkels with purge valves, check for any warping or cracking of the valve, and make sure it has been rinsed free from any debris and particles that could clog it.

Attachment Buckles
Check the mask and fin strap attachment buckles or holder for any signs of distortion or cracking. Check any retaining screws or pins for security, and occasionally tighten when needed.

Fins
If your fins are constructed of a combination of neoprene and plastic, don't forget to check for signs of deterioration in the neoprene foot pocket. While the newer plastic materials used in the fin blade may be impervious to deterioration, the neoprene foot pocket will deteriorate if not properly protected from harmful elements such as chlorine, ozone, or ultraviolet rays.

Mask and Fin Straps
Pay special attention to your mask and fin strap holders and buckles by taking care to rinse out the sand and salt particles that may have become lodged in the holder assemblies. With the new style quick release strap holders, relaxing the tension on the straps after each dive will contribute to their longevity.

Knives and Other Gear

Should be thoroughly rinsed, dried and stored

Here is a guide to services your gear with your local Dive Shop

Maintain Your Gear